Pythons

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Diamond PythonPythons As Pets
The Python is the most popular snake kept as pets. Pythons are non-venomous and generally easy to handle and look after. There are many varieties of pythons from the more common sold snakes like Jungle Pythons and Children’s Pythons to the more elaborate pythons like Greens Tree Pythons, Woma Pythons and one of my favourites “BHP” Black Headed Pythons.
Which Snake?
Every snake has is own mind and personality. Most pythons with regular yet moderate handing over time will become less defensive and know your not there to hurt it. Young and Juvenile snakes can be aggressive this is normally just in defence as they do not know humans yet. Larger snakes like the Olive Python and Scrub Pythons will require regular handing before they become adults. Pythons as all snakes should still be handled with care as a bite from an adult python can still be quite painful and cause serious injury.
Regular Handling
Regular handling does not mean have your hatchling or Juvenile python away from its enclosure on you 12-24 hours everyday. This will most likely just stress the python out. Handing for 10 min to 1 hour everyday or every second day should be quite sufficient for a juveniles and hatchlings.
Some pythons will become cage defensive. This sometimes can be the python thinking it is getting food, or maybe they are letting you know that they are hungry. Others just do it for no apparent reason at all but being a bad natured snake. Majority of times the pet pythons will calm down and relax as soon as they are removed from there home. You should always use a hook when removing larger pythons from their enclosures. A healthy python will regularly flicker its tongue and should have a glossy skin. Their eyes can appear milky before shedding occurs and usally will not eat.

Python enclosurePython Enclosures
Hatchlings and juvenile pythons require a snake enclosure of at least 20cm x 15cm x 10cm. Adult and larger pythons should have a minimum size reptile enclosure or outdoor reptile cage of 50cm x 100cm height can vary depending on python type, size and number of pythons in the reptile enclosure minimum for one python should be 60cm for ground dwellers and 90cm for climbers. Pythons in the wild are not big on wondering to far from home so don’t really require the enclosure space other snakes and lizards need. These are the minimum requirements I still feel that a all pythons should be able to stretch out and not be coiled up there whole life’s. Don’t go mad with the size of your hatchling enclosures a smaller environment will make the python feel more secure and will do for the next few months.



Lighting and Heating
In our opinion every reptile needs UVB and UVA rays. With out UVA/UVB rays you are shorting the life span of your python and leaving him open to dieases that are caused from lack of Vitiam D.(More to come on this Soon) A compact 2.0 can be used on pythons and can be on for 2-6 hours a day. Alternatly take your python out side with you in the sun 2 times a week for at 10-20 minutes. Heating is required in most states and during the colder months (Unless you are hibernating or bromating your pythons during the colder months. Temperature can vary between species but around the 28 to 30 degree mark around the basking spot is common. Reptile heat lights can be used to form different temps in areas of the python enclosure. Remember you’re not trying to heat the whole enclosure to (example) 28 degrees there must be a cool and hot spot in your enclosure. This allows the python to move to a temp he desires. Always use reptile heat light cages with any python or snake. No heating or lighting should be necessary at night all pythons need to cool down at night. If they have absorbed enough heat during the day they will regulate their body temperature through out the night and benefit greatly from it. Look at the area your python habits in the wild most places in Australia even the desert cools down to low temps at night.


Python enclosure

Feeding
Pythons in their natural environment will eat anything from lizards, other snakes, flying fox, birds and rats. Remember it is illegal to feed your python any other snake, lizard or any other native, endangered or protected animal. For captive snakes you can feed anything from pinkie mice to rats and quails. All these are readily available from The Reptile Shop or good pet shops, . They are culled and most come frozen. Thaw frozen food in hot tap water(Not Boiling) Make sure it is fully unfrozen and still warm before feeding. Hatchlings and juvenile Pythons can be fed once per week in the warmer months and less in winter if not hibernating. Adults and larger pythons can be fed every 8 to 10 days and can consume up to two or three adult rats, pigeons or quails. However they are quite capable of going with out food and without harm for up to 2 months. Feed and shedding patterns are generally consistent so keep a diary and over time you will be able to see a feed pattern . Pythons like most snakes will most likely refuse food before and during shedding. Feeding of live animals is highly not recommended. Feeding your python out of its enclosure is recommended and sworn to by some reptile keepers.
All pythons will need a water bowl and some species like carpet pythons and water pythons will need a larger container to immerse in .